If Erson said set timing at 4* they probably meant to install at 4* advance, not the running timing on the harmonic balancer. i've never seen a cam company tell you what to set the engine timing to. I would get or borrow a timing light with the ajustable timing control, and bring the rpm's up to about 3,000 rpms and set the timing to 36/38 degrees total timing.

As Todd says total timing not idle timing.

JMO

Zip.

I called myself doing so, that is why I am so stumped here I have built bigger engines in the past with out this issue (20 years ago). yeah i have only run about six maybe seven laps on a 3/8's mile high bank track, but with that it has total hard pull coming out until you go back in, no flat spot what so ever. I have had to run in a class above mine with much more motor and car set up, had no trouble staying up with the lead cars until temp hit 250 and still climbing and I came in to cool down.

Thanks for the great info. I will try this and see what happens, I know a couple of other racers that run late models and set very similar, didn't think about it until you mentioned it.

Thats what I was thinking John, +4 on the cam, not initial timing.......

Add more timing to it, at least 10 BTDC for starters, then if she still runs warm jet up on the carb about 2 sizes square, a lean carb will warm things up with a quickness, that coupled with a slightly re-tarded motor ( no offense) is a recipe for one hot tamale.....


Goodluck>Cp

On a circle track engine who care what the initial timing is you need to know what your total timing is and set your timing at the RPM where you dist. stops advancing,

Setting your timing at 3000 could burn your engine up if your engine has to be at 3800 Per say to acheive total advance.

One other thing make sure you balancer is degreed prperly and stay away from the dial back lites as I have seen them burn up mor pistons over the years.

Here is a few links to look over on timing lites.

http://www.dragracingonline.com/tech...-lights-1.html

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/173877/

Thanks for the great information, I feel that based on the responses I need to go back in and check the degree and go from there. Rather spend a few hours time and a few dollars in gaskets than many hours and many dollars for the sake of a blown motor. I have seen many pistons fried due to a timing issue.

As Carl/Hink says wherever the distributor goes to full advance set the timing at somewhere between 34 and 40 degrees, whatever the motor likes. If that doesn't cure the problems you have other issues, such as radiator or waterpump, also you didn't say if you were runing a fan shroud, that's a must.

JMO

Zip.

Yes, it has a custom made fan shroud to direct more air and a new tri pass rad. also a stewart stage two aluminum water pump. The carb is a new 1850, may need re jetting, it may have 12-15 laps on it, engine has always run hot despite all efforts to correct. I have been told by several that " it is going to run hot because of the bore.060" I know that is not the issue as most of the engines I have built were .060" and I have not had this continued problem. Thanks for the info.