Rick, call Greg at FTI and tell him I sent you there for some info. Most think you need a 10" converter with a blower to kill some of the hit, which is just the opposite most 10" stuff is more aggressive then a 9".

2 months ago a customer at the shop I wire for had massive shake issues with his blown dragster. We went to the track with him and a few different converters, tire shake massive with the 10", put the 9" in it and picked up 2 tenths and no tire shake. Went 6.92@191.

Re: ?
 

BB Chevy,
Do you mean we need a tight converter or our problem is a tight convertor?

Thanks,
Rick

Thanks David, I will call Greg when I get a chance and pick his brain. We are going to try our 8" converter that was just re-done even though it is built for an injected SBC in this set up. It may just give us the info we need, then I can get someone like Greg to build us a converter that will help us.

Thanks again,
Rick

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Rick Yes you NEED a TIGHT Converter,3000-3500 Range!
Later
G 8)
GOOD Luck with that 8",.........

You'll find Greg knowns his stuff, do you know if you JW 10" has 8" internals like most other 10" converters do ? The blower car we worked on, was 6600 on the fallback stall, the right guy in a lighter car can get the loose converters to work well, which makes them deadly.

I run a 4000 stall 10" with my blown sm/blk, but it's probably apples and oranges because it's a door car. What most people donot understand is that a good blower is all in at 3000 rpm, you're not going to get more boost after that just more air flow.

Zip.

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Thanks for the help BB Chevy.

Rick

Thanks David for the help.
Rick

Zip you nailed it with the apples and oranges on the door car, with the lighter cars you can get away with the loosened converter.

"Apples and Oranges" . . Definitely!

Tire Shake, basically, is caused by not enough tire speed to keep the sidewall wrinkled and the sectional profile in a rectangle . . The cure is as varied as the vehicles susceptible to it . .

A FED really shouldn't be exhibiting a lot of it because of the inherent design and weight bias . . But it does happen . . Perhaps not enough negative pitch on the crank centerline . . More common on rear motored cars, blown altereds and blown door cars built to run in the 7 second and faster range . .

I'll go with the Tighter Converter suggestion. Awhile back I was the crew chief for a Blown Alky Altered and we stalled at 5000+ on the starting line . . 500" B Chrysler, 8-71, Hoosiers, 7 second car . . never had a tire shake problem.

On the Blower deal . . "3000 RPM and you're done" . . not really. Depends on your Blower and the pulleys you use . . If that were the concrete case, you wouldn't need to overdrive a Blower like we all do on a competition Engine . . and I underdrive the little 144 on my Street Rod so that in high gear I'm not running against compression, yet when I stand on it it starts working at 2650 engine RPM . . Noticeably!