TIMING ? AGAIN
08-17-2009, 07:52 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by JEFF69Z28
WHEN THE #1 PISTON WAS AT TDC THE ROTOR IS POINTING AT THE NUMBER 6 CYLINDER AND THE #1 PLUG WIRE IS IN THAT AREA ON THE CAP SHOULD I PUT MY TIMING LIGHT ON THAT WIRE?OR SHOULD I TAKE THE DIST.OUT AND HAVE THE ROTOR POINTING AT NUMBER ONE.BOY AM I CONFUSED!
08-17-2009, 08:16 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by OneBadGMC
Originally Posted by JEFF69Z28
WHEN THE #1 PISTON WAS AT TDC THE ROTOR IS POINTING AT THE NUMBER 6 CYLINDER AND THE #1 PLUG WIRE IS IN THAT AREA ON THE CAP SHOULD I PUT MY TIMING LIGHT ON THAT WIRE?OR SHOULD I TAKE THE DIST.OUT AND HAVE THE ROTOR POINTING AT NUMBER ONE.BOY AM I CONFUSED!
08-17-2009, 08:18 AM
#33
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Originally Posted by JEFF69Z28
Originally Posted by OneBadGMC
Originally Posted by JEFF69Z28
WHEN THE #1 PISTON WAS AT TDC THE ROTOR IS POINTING AT THE NUMBER 6 CYLINDER AND THE #1 PLUG WIRE IS IN THAT AREA ON THE CAP SHOULD I PUT MY TIMING LIGHT ON THAT WIRE?OR SHOULD I TAKE THE DIST.OUT AND HAVE THE ROTOR POINTING AT NUMBER ONE.BOY AM I CONFUSED!
It DOES NOT matter where the rotor points, so long as when the motor is on #1 TDC that the rotor is pointing at #1 in the cap.
If the motor is on #1 TDC and the rotor is pointing at the #6 plug wire in the cap, then yes, it's wrong.
08-17-2009, 08:23 AM
#34
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Jeff when he says #1 on the cap that is wherever the #1 plug wire is on the cap. Doesn't matter which place on the cap you put the #1 wire as long as the rotor is pointing at it at TDC.
You might have someone give you a call and talk you through it on the phone, could be easier than reading it.
Curtis
You might have someone give you a call and talk you through it on the phone, could be easier than reading it.
Curtis
08-17-2009, 08:52 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by doorracer
Jeff when he says #1 on the cap that is wherever the #1 plug wire is on the cap. Doesn't matter which place on the cap you put the #1 wire as long as the rotor is pointing at it at TDC.
You might have someone give you a call and talk you through it on the phone, could be easier than reading it.
Curtis
You might have someone give you a call and talk you through it on the phone, could be easier than reading it.
Curtis
08-17-2009, 09:18 AM
#37
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JUST A THOUGHT AM I UNDER CARBED?
406 CID CHEVY
11.5 COMP.
260/264@50
688/678 LIFT SOLID ROLLER
AFR210 ELIMINATOR HEADS 64CC 2.08/1.60, COMP.PORTED.
SUPER VICTOR INTAKE PORT MATCHED
HOLLEY HP WORKED TO FLOW 840 CFM
MSD 6AL 2
MSD 85551 DIST.
MSD BLASTER SS COIL.
406 CID CHEVY
11.5 COMP.
260/264@50
688/678 LIFT SOLID ROLLER
AFR210 ELIMINATOR HEADS 64CC 2.08/1.60, COMP.PORTED.
SUPER VICTOR INTAKE PORT MATCHED
HOLLEY HP WORKED TO FLOW 840 CFM
MSD 6AL 2
MSD 85551 DIST.
MSD BLASTER SS COIL.
08-17-2009, 09:46 AM
#38
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No, you're not under carbed.
Can you make a video and upload it? What you call rough and what I call rough may be two different things.
Some carbs run rough at part throttle. I know you said it was a gas motor, so it's not the typical alky roughness at part throttle. You didn't say, however, whether the motor has power valves in it, or if the power valves are plugged off. If there are no power valves, it will run rough at part throttle.
If, however, you can back off the motor 2 degrees, and the 'roughness' goes away, then you may want to try closing up plug gaps to like .018 (just to try it), then up the timing.
If the roughness still occurs, it's time to start changing out electronic parts until you find the culprit.
It could be:
1. cap, rotor, or both.
2. Old plug wires? Have you checked the resistance in each plug wire with an ohm meter?
3. Coil going bad
4. Points in the dist? If points, have you checked the point gap?
5. 6AL box going bad.
6. Excessive plug gap
7. Bad ground... The coil should be grounded to the battery and heads (both heads) via dedicated leads.
Those are all things off the top of my head that can cause 'roughness' due to ignition issues. This is assuming that there's nothing wrong with the carb.
A simpler thing to try would be changing the carb out...
Can you make a video and upload it? What you call rough and what I call rough may be two different things.
Some carbs run rough at part throttle. I know you said it was a gas motor, so it's not the typical alky roughness at part throttle. You didn't say, however, whether the motor has power valves in it, or if the power valves are plugged off. If there are no power valves, it will run rough at part throttle.
If, however, you can back off the motor 2 degrees, and the 'roughness' goes away, then you may want to try closing up plug gaps to like .018 (just to try it), then up the timing.
If the roughness still occurs, it's time to start changing out electronic parts until you find the culprit.
It could be:
1. cap, rotor, or both.
2. Old plug wires? Have you checked the resistance in each plug wire with an ohm meter?
3. Coil going bad
4. Points in the dist? If points, have you checked the point gap?
5. 6AL box going bad.
6. Excessive plug gap
7. Bad ground... The coil should be grounded to the battery and heads (both heads) via dedicated leads.
Those are all things off the top of my head that can cause 'roughness' due to ignition issues. This is assuming that there's nothing wrong with the carb.
A simpler thing to try would be changing the carb out...
08-17-2009, 10:02 AM
#39
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Originally Posted by OneBadGMC
No, you're not under carbed.
Can you make a video and upload it? What you call rough and what I call rough may be two different things.
Some carbs run rough at part throttle. I know you said it was a gas motor, so it's not the typical alky roughness at part throttle. You didn't say, however, whether the motor has power valves in it, or if the power valves are plugged off. If there are no power valves, it will run rough at part throttle.
If, however, you can back off the motor 2 degrees, and the 'roughness' goes away, then you may want to try closing up plug gaps to like .018 (just to try it), then up the timing.
If the roughness still occurs, it's time to start changing out electronic parts until you find the culprit.
It could be:
1. cap, rotor, or both.
2. Old plug wires? Have you checked the resistance in each plug wire with an ohm meter?
3. Coil going bad
4. Points in the dist? If points, have you checked the point gap?
5. 6AL box going bad.
6. Excessive plug gap
7. Bad ground... The coil should be grounded to the battery and heads (both heads) via dedicated leads.
Those are all things off the top of my head that can cause 'roughness' due to ignition issues. This is assuming that there's nothing wrong with the carb.
A simpler thing to try would be changing the carb out...
Can you make a video and upload it? What you call rough and what I call rough may be two different things.
Some carbs run rough at part throttle. I know you said it was a gas motor, so it's not the typical alky roughness at part throttle. You didn't say, however, whether the motor has power valves in it, or if the power valves are plugged off. If there are no power valves, it will run rough at part throttle.
If, however, you can back off the motor 2 degrees, and the 'roughness' goes away, then you may want to try closing up plug gaps to like .018 (just to try it), then up the timing.
If the roughness still occurs, it's time to start changing out electronic parts until you find the culprit.
It could be:
1. cap, rotor, or both.
2. Old plug wires? Have you checked the resistance in each plug wire with an ohm meter?
3. Coil going bad
4. Points in the dist? If points, have you checked the point gap?
5. 6AL box going bad.
6. Excessive plug gap
7. Bad ground... The coil should be grounded to the battery and heads (both heads) via dedicated leads.
Those are all things off the top of my head that can cause 'roughness' due to ignition issues. This is assuming that there's nothing wrong with the carb.
A simpler thing to try would be changing the carb out...
ALSO I WANT TO THANK EVERYONE FOR THEIR TIME AND HELP.MY CAPS LOCK BUTTON IS BROKE ON MY KEYBOARD THAT IS WHY IM TYPING IN CAP'S.