starting problem with crank trigger
#1
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 20
starting problem with crank trigger
Been running MSD crank trigger system with a 7AL-2 box for several years. Was using a 8984 msd starter saver to retard the timing at start up. Car always started fine. Car quit one night at a big money race and would not start. Took it home and traced it down to the starter saver. Went to a fancy digital start/high speed retard system from msd. Looked good on the dash but engine always kicked back when starting. Tried different retard settings but nothing worked. Sent it back and got a 8982 start/retard box and the same problem. 0,15.or 25 retard doesn't change anything. Problem with the BOX??? Any suggestions??
#3
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DYNO OPERATOR
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 459
Starting problem
When using the Starter Saver, there is 2 choices of retard, 10 or 20 degrees. If you were using 10 degrees on it and you have not tried 10 degrees on the new boxes, maybe over 10 degrees retard is too much?
On a 12.5 compression 496 BBC, 10 degrees works most of the time. 20 degrees can cause kick back when hot.
On a 12.5 compression 496 BBC, 10 degrees works most of the time. 20 degrees can cause kick back when hot.
#5
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RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: La.
Posts: 2,890
Please keep this thread going, i don't run a crank trigger or a starter retard, but we do run a crank trigger on the 66 Biscyne pump gas motor. I just get the engine spinning after the fuel is up then flip the ignation on while running alcohol. I'm learning something here and i'm old but never too old to learn.
Zip.
Zip.
#6
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Coming from an era when a dual point and a 50,000 volt coil was the cats meow I too am getting older. Sometimes I think all this new fangled stuff is a waste of time. Use a drilled cap to set the rotor phasing. Was down playing with it today and looking at the directions for the retard and realized it stayed in the retard mode until 1300 rpm. The starter saver I was using didn't do that. Was adjusting the rotor at idle. Figured it was worth a shot so I moved the dist a few degrees and it started fine. Not 100% sure it will fix the problem but it seems to have at this point. Will be doing some rotor phase testing before the season starts.
#9
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Engine is a 557 bbc with about 11=1 compression running pump gas. Did have one starter saver go bad and cost me a race. Wiring is set up so I can bypass it if it does it again. Am thinking about trashing the crank trigger and going to a regular dist.
#10
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 459
starting
If you are going back to a distributor to get back to some timing advance curve and have less timing at idle, keep this in mind. If you have a Dominator carb, it may need all the advace to run well at idle. Not much booster signal there and a big plenum intake typically.